Banc d’Arguin National Park

Banc d’Arguin National Park on Mauritania‘s Atlantic coast hosts over two million migratory waterbirds annually and is considered one of the most important shorebird sites in the world, with guided boat tours into the park costing approximately 20,000 to 30,000 MRU per group (around $50 to $80 USD) plus park entry fees. The park covers 12,000 square kilometres of shallow coastal waters, sand islands, tidal flats, seagrass beds, and adjacent Saharan desert along the Atlantic coast between Nouakchott and Nouadhibou. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1989 for its outstanding universal value as a breeding and wintering habitat for European and Siberian migratory birds, as well as for the traditional fishing practices of the Imraguen communities living within the park. Independent access into the park is not permitted; all visits require a guide and boat, arranged through tour operators in Nouakchott or Nouadhibou.

The park’s ecological productivity stems from the cold Canary Current upwelling that makes these Atlantic waters among the most nutrient-rich in West Africa. The shallow sand banks trap nutrients and support dense seagrass beds, which sustain both the birds that feed on invertebrates in the tidal flats and the fish populations that form the basis of the Imraguen fishing economy. The contrast between the Saharan desert on the park’s landward edge and the dense birdlife of its coastal waters gives Banc d’Arguin a character unlike any other protected area in Africa.

Migratory Waterbirds at Banc d’Arguin

The shorebird concentrations at Banc d’Arguin during the northern hemisphere winter from October through March represent one of the largest aggregations of wading birds anywhere in the world. Species arriving from breeding grounds in Europe, Siberia, and the Arctic include bar-tailed godwit, knot, dunlin, grey plover, ringed plover, sanderling, and curlew sandpiper. At peak count periods, individual species counts can reach tens of thousands, and the combined shorebird numbers regularly exceed one million birds during the October to November arrival period.

The park holds internationally significant breeding populations of several species that remain year-round. Greater flamingos breed on sandy islands within the park and are present in large numbers throughout the year. Great white pelicans maintain one of their most important Atlantic breeding colonies at Banc d’Arguin, with thousands of nesting pairs on the low sandy islands. Royal terns, sandwich terns, and Caspian terns breed in mixed colonies on undisturbed sandbanks. Ospreys are resident throughout the park and nest on dead trees, marker posts, and elevated ground across the islands.

The Imraguen Fishermen of Banc d’Arguin

The Imraguen people are the traditional fishing community whose villages are located within the park boundaries, a unique arrangement that recognises their centuries-long sustainable use of the park’s marine resources. Several Imraguen villages, including Iwik, Arkeiss, and Teichott, are accessible by boat from the main park entry points and can be visited as part of guided tours. The Imraguen use traditional wooden sailing boats called lampes, which they row and sail in the shallow waters of the park.

The most famous aspect of Imraguen fishing is the cooperative relationship with bottlenose dolphins, who drive schools of grey mullet toward shore during their autumn migration. Imraguen fishermen wade into the shallows following the dolphins, casting nets as the dolphins herd fish within range. The practice has been documented since at least the 15th century and represents one of the rare examples of long-term cooperative fishing between humans and wild dolphins anywhere in the world. Witnessing this behaviour requires visiting during the October to December mullet migration season.

Marine Wildlife: Dolphins, Turtles, and Monk Seals

Bottlenose dolphins and Atlantic humpback dolphins are both resident in Banc d’Arguin’s waters year-round, with the Atlantic humpback dolphin a species of conservation concern whose population here represents one of the most studied in West Africa. Green turtles and loggerhead turtles use the park’s seagrass beds for feeding and its beaches for nesting, with green turtle nesting recorded on several of the park’s more remote sandy beaches.

The Mediterranean monk seal was historically present in Banc d’Arguin and occasional sightings have been reported from the park in recent years, though confirmed breeding is not established in this area. The park’s waters provide habitat for several shark species using the warm shallow areas, and the deep-water zones adjacent to the park boundary support populations of large pelagic fish that attract the artisanal fishing boats from Nouadhibou and Nouakchott. Dugongs have been recorded in the seagrass areas, though sightings are rare.

Access and Visiting Logistics

All visits to Banc d’Arguin National Park must be arranged through licensed operators, as independent entry is not permitted. The main entry point is from the coastal town of Iwik, approximately 110 kilometres north of Nouakchott, accessed via a rough desert piste that requires a 4WD vehicle. The alternative northern entry is from Nouadhibou, approximately 180 kilometres to the north. Most tour operators depart from Nouakchott and use boats from the park’s coastal entry points to access the islands and tidal flats.

The park headquarters is located at Iwik village, where park entry fees are collected and boat guides are assigned to visiting groups. A typical day boat tour covers the main shorebird areas, a visit to one or two Imraguen villages, and a stop at one of the pelican or flamingo concentration areas. Overnight stays within the park can be arranged with operators who have camping permits, allowing early morning birdwatching at the peak feeding times. All food, water, and equipment must be brought from Nouakchott or Nouadhibou, as nothing is available within the park.

Birdwatching at Banc d’Arguin: Key Species and Sites

The most productive birdwatching sites within Banc d’Arguin are the large tidal flats around the islands of Nair and Kijji, where concentrations of tens of thousands of shorebirds feed at low tide and roost on the exposed sandbanks at high tide. The roost gatherings at high tide, when all the waders are compressed onto a small area of exposed sand, produce some of the most spectacular birdwatching experiences available anywhere in Africa.

Spoonbills are present in significant numbers, with both Eurasian spoonbill and African spoonbill recorded. Western reef egret and grey heron are common along the shorelines. The open desert areas adjacent to the coast hold cream-coloured courser, desert wheatear, and bar-tailed lark, adding a Saharan component to the species list. The combination of Palearctic migrants, resident colonial waterbirds, and Saharan landbirds within a single day’s boat trip makes Banc d’Arguin an exceptionally varied birdwatching destination.

Cost Breakdown for Banc d’Arguin National Park

Best Time to Visit Banc d’Arguin National Park

Getting to Banc d’Arguin National Park from Nouakchott

Nouakchott is the primary base for visiting Banc d’Arguin, located approximately 110 kilometres south of the park’s main entry point at Iwik. The drive north from Nouakchott on the Route de l’Espoir and then onto the coastal piste takes approximately two to three hours in a 4WD vehicle. The track is sand and compacted gravel in parts; a vehicle with high clearance and ideally sand recovery equipment is recommended for drivers unfamiliar with desert track conditions. Tour operators in Nouakchott typically collect guests from their hotels at 06:00 to 07:00 for a full day in the park.

Nouakchott-Oumtounsy International Airport receives direct flights from Paris (Air France), Casablanca (Royal Air Maroc), Dakar, and several West African cities. A visa on arrival is available for most nationalities at the airport, costing $55 USD payable in cash. The Mauritanian ouguiya (MRU) is the local currency; exchange is available at the airport and in Nouakchott, and tour operators typically quote in USD or euros. ATMs are available in Nouakchott but scarce elsewhere.